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Books 

Berberisca: The Great Dress

A one-of-a-kind, flag format artist hand-made book

 

With its roots in fifteenth-century Spain, the Berberisca, otherwise known as “The Great Dress,” or keswa-el-kbira (in Arabic), is a traditional

wedding dress worn by Moroccan and Algerian Jewish women of Sephardic descent. Traditionally, a father gifts his daughter a Berberisca

dress for her wedding, and the first time she wears it is at the henna ceremony, before the actual wedding. The velvet dress with its gold

detailing, twenty-two braided gold curves on the skirt representing the twenty-two letters in the Hebrew alphabet, and the large gold

embroidered swirls of the bodice representing the circle of life, establishes it as a symbol of the bride’s new role as the guardian of Jewish

tradition in the home as she embarks on building her future family.

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I became enamored of this traditional dress as I plunged deeper into research for my cyanotype collage project on the women of North Africa. I discovered a treasure-trove of images, not only studio photographs of women marking their transition into married life, but also paintings by illustrious artists from the 18th and 19th Century’s Orientalist school, such as Eugene Delacroix, who chose to represent women of the Orient as Jewesses festooned in this traditional costume. I collected these images over several years, waiting to touch them with my own hand, and somehow transform them into a meaningful body of work. The gold embellishments on the dresses were the inspiration for the extensive use of gold and copper leaf. I added photo fixer to the metal sheets to corrode the surface as a nod to my own intervention as a photographer, and to communicate that this is part of a way of life that has itself been lost over time. In obscuring the backgrounds of the original studio portraits and paintings, I created my own visual framework for gathering the women of the photographs and the women of the paintings together and harness a more focused, feminine dialogue – with viewers and with each other. The book structure aggregates them into an intentional collection, while its flag format allows those engaged with it to view the cards interactively in any order (front-to-back, back-to-front, anywhere in-between), to view the women as a group with a common tradition, or as individuals each marking her own personal rite of passage in the universal role of the bride.

COVERS

 

Wallpaper samples evoking the

red and green colors of the

traditional Berberisca, and the

style of textiles used in original

studio backdrops were used to

create the front and back

covers.

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BACKBINDING AND SUPPORT

 

16-fold cardstock accordion attached to cardboard front and back covers; wallpaper sample used as cover wraping; endpapers from patterned scrapbook paper chosen for its oriental-like pattern and complementary colors to both the cover design and those found in the individual card images; ribbon tie closures; open dimensions - 12"h X 36"w

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22 INDIVIDUAL FLAG CARD IMAGES

 

Artist-printed digital color photographic blends on 3.75”w X 5.5”h cardstock; gold and copper leafing treated with sodium thiosulfate (fixer) for corrosive texture effect; gold ink embellishments.

© 2026 Fruma Markowitz   All Rights Reserved

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